A Round of Ports: Busan, Shimonoseki, and Hong Kong

I was asked to fly out during the weekend a couple weeks ago for work in Korea. I regretted my decision to sacrifice my weekend but really had no reason to refuse. As I took on the much dreaded trip (departing Saturday morning, arriving Sunday night, then starting work Monday), I was met with the pleasant surprise that there is going to be a factory-wide shutdown the following week and all other factories in nearby countries are in Golden Week holiday. I've never really had more than one day of weekend when traveling for work, let alone whole 3 days! (Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday)

I wanted to see a little bit more of Korea, but also didn't want to miss the chance to go to Japan. So instead of flying out directly, I took a train to the closest major city, Busan, then rode a ferry from Busan to Fukuoka.

Since work ended early on Saturday, I had most of the afternoon to walk around Busan and enjoy the beautiful weather. I didn't expect Busan to leave much of an impression on me, since I figured it won't be much different from other Asian port cities I've been to. Boy was I wrong... Busan was surrounded by hills offering stunning backdrop to the busy port and numerous high rises. I tried to find a walkway closer to the waters and somehow ended up on an empty stretch of walkway along the piers. (there was exactly 1 person that went by in the one hour I was standing there) He muttered something in Korea (which I took to be along the lines of "oh what you're drawing here?!") and I returned a polite laughter of approval. 

I was under the impression that large ships dock forever, which was wrong, as the giant tanker left just as I was putting finishing touches on the distant hills. Throwing fist and protesting in its direction certainly did not help. Soon I looked like an idiot hallucinating of a large ship, so I quickly packed up and went on my way finding dinner.

 I arrived in Fukuoka around noon the next day. I was worried about the ferry ride because of my pathetic ability against seasickness, but the hydrofoil boat felt more like a bus than a boat when it was at speed. More than anything, I was glad that I could finally order food without guessing! I was never so happy when I saw the Kanji written on buildings as we approached the port.

After dropping of my suitcase and finishing up some shopping, I departed for Mojiko/Shimonoseki, along the strait separating Kyushu and Honshu. There weren't many tourists, even though it is the beginning of Golden Week in Japan, probably because most of them are heading to eastern Kyushu where there are hot springs and resorts. I quickly located my target: Kanmon Bridge, and set out painting this piece with a boat in the foreground.

The tour of ports ended in Hong Kong, where I met up with my parents in the last day of China Golden Week (Tuesday) After they set off to the airport to catch their afternoon flight, I decided to scout out one of the lesser known attractions of Hong Kong, Checkerboard Hill, usually associated with the old Kai Tak Airport. There was no clear signage for the place so I poked around online blogs and google reviews. Unfortunately most of the directions for the vista point were from 3+ years ago, and every single one of them contained explicit instructions to jump over fences and find holes in wires. It took me 3 hikes up the same mountain to find the actual checkerboard! I almost gave up after my 2nd attempt and decided to just look up at the hill from the nearby tennis court. However, right after I refilled my water bottle at the tennis court and was enjoying the gentle breeze, I saw somebody descending down the hill behind me. The hill was so clearly fenced off that I thought there was no way that person could make it...but he just bent slightly and walked through a barely noticeable hole in the fence!! (There was so much vegetation behind the fence that you can't see the hole unless specifically looking for it) I basically stared at him open-mouthed as he headed down to the tennis court. He then noticed me and told me something in Cantonese (I didn't understand him, but I assume it's along the lines of "you can reach the top of the hill from there"). I asked if this is checkerboard hill, but he seemed to not know the name. So I thanked him and walked gingerly up the steep stairway. I admired the spectacular view above the trees and paid my respect to the peeling colors of the original checkerboard pattern. After hearing and seeing it so many times online, I finally was able to see it with my own eyes (albeit not touching it, because I'm slightly afraid of height lol)

Before the shops are open: morning stroll through Yanaka, Tokyo

I successfully negotiated my way to a 20-hr layover in Tokyo. (a full-day stopover would have costed +4k to change, and it took a whole night of sleep for me to figure out that I could achieve a similar result by having a super long layover instead!) The only catch is that I needed to pack very carefully so as to bring just the right amount in my carry-on bag because I wouldn't have access to my suitcase until 30+ hrs later in the US. 

Minus sleeping time, I really only had ~6 hrs of free time in Tokyo. The extra long queue at immigrations the night before had left me exhausted. It was probably the longest I have waited at the NRT immigrations: close to 1 hr in a line snaking multiple loops. This is because my choice of day unfortunately fell on the eve of the tomb-sweeping long weekend... (I was expecting crazy crowd in Tokyo because of the insane line, but the town was actually quite normal otherwise) Thankfully I still managed to get up, eat, and check out of the hotel before 10. I made a point to eat more than I felt like because given my schedule I'm fully aware my next meal will probably be on the plane. 

This is my first time intentionally stay in Nippori neighbourhood, given its proximity to my first destination Yanaka/Sendagi and being endpoint of an airport express. Yanaka is known as one of the last Shitamachi's of Tokyo where small shops and grocers still line the street. In fact, when I was sketching at a street corner, I can hear neighbours greeting each other as they set up their shops or running morning errands on their bikes. 

Looking down at Yanaka Ginza (main shopping street of Yanaka) from the top of the stairs. A steady stream of tourists and locals huffed and puffed their way up the stairs.

The delivery guys were so incredibly efficient that I was only able to capture a quick silhouette. (Guy in the red cap was doing some morning deliveries in his van)

Follow up visit: Ise Grand Shrine - Inner Shrine

With only half a day to spare last trip, I was only able to loiter around the outer shrine (the inner shrine is a bit farther from public transportation). After working 8 days straight, I was granted a precious day off to recuperate. Since I usually have overly optimistic shopping goals for my day flying out of NRT (which is usually in the afternoon, but after sleeping in a bit, I only have max 1 hr to shop at Tokyo station...), I decided to venture away from the big city and complete the Ise Shrine tour. Plus I really wanted to see the sacred Isuzu River and Uji-Bridge that separates the 2 worlds.

The day started off great with brilliant sunshine. But alas, I spent those precious sunny hours rolling around in bed, refusing to get up. By the time I finished breakfast, the sky has already turned into an ominous grey. Unfortunately the all-too-chirpy me was oblivious to the change and bounced my way to the train station (finally heading to a different direction this time!) Since I was already staying in the suburbs in Mie Prefecture, Ise Shrine itself is within 1 hr traveling time (the hotel I was staying at also hosts plenty of Shrine-goers on the weekend) This time I skipped Ise-city and got off at Isuzugawa station. The sacred river follows the pathway to the Shrine (about 30-min walk away)

I bumped into this classical looking house against the backdrop of a green misty mountain. As I started working on it though, raindrops started falling unmercifully. I had to quickly scribble while the rain eases slightly, but most of the time I was just dodging rain drops by angling my sketchbook upright. I was not caught by the owner of the house...but I did anger some passing motorists, because I was taking space away from an already narrow road.

As I was walking aside Isuzu-River towards the Shrine ground, the rain started picking up so I decided to rest under the bridge (Thank you, bridge) to dry myself up a bit. Unfortunately (or rather, fortunately) the rain went on for a long time, so I expanded my drawing from just a few buildings, to more buildings on the right, and finally the bridge also. (while I observe families running for cover and dads scrambling to drive the cars around to pick up their families under the bridge) By the time I was putting on finishing touches, the rain still hasn't let up, so I ended up just walking in the rain with no umbrella or hood (not a wise idea since my throat started itching by the evening even after soaking in the hot spring)

The bridge looked impressive even in the dreadful weather. I really hoped that I had time to dot in the details, but with the uncertainty of the weather I went ahead full speed getting the picture together as fast as I could. I'm glad the Shrine cut open a viewing spot for the bridge, because the lower grounds on the other sides were all off limits. When I walked into the area there was just a tourist group heading in for a group photo and one gentleman promptly handed me the camera. I was glad to help out, but as I held up the camera I came to the horrific realization that I have no idea what the Japanese usually say when taking pictures!!? I remember it is something to do with "Cheese", but had no idea how the rhythm works... so I awkwardly started counting down with "Three, Two, One" Fortunately everyone just went with the flow and nobody questioned my weird countdown. It was also super awkward when I say I'd go for a second take and the digital camera took a long time to load up again. The point-and-shoot camera is truly a relic only available in Japan nowadays.

At long last (at least a 15 min walk from the bridge) I arrived at the Main Shrine of the Inner Shrine of the Ise Grand Shrine (believe me it sounded simpler in Japanese). The long flight of stone stairs leading up the Shrine was truly impressive. Most of the people are crowding on top of stairs so it is still possible to enjoy the view from down below. By this time the rain has (strangely) let up, so I did another quick piece while taking a rest from all the walking.

Weekend of Shrines! Tsubaki Grand Shrine & Ise Grand Shrine

Never thought I would say this Japan, but I wish I had a car this time. The shrine that I wanted to visit is at most 40 min drive from Nagoya, but by public transit and it took at least 2:30 hrs on way. Not to mention that bus departs from the shrine only once every 2 hours. (And yes, I was running for that returning bus without having time to screw on my water jar or put away my brushes) 

Tsubaki Grand Shrine (Tsubaki Ookami Yashiro)

Location: Suzuka, Mie Prefecture

The was already a guy sitting in front of the main shrine and painting when I arrived by bus at ~11am. I sort of camped myself behind the Torii gate to get away from the sun and to draw in the huge trees leading the way to the shrine. I think everyone who passed by assumed that the other guy and I know each other (one even went as far as to ask the other guy if he knows me lol, I think he might be a little creeped out seeing that he's being secretly observed from behind) For a long weekend, the shrine did not have as many visitors as I would imagined (meaning I don't need to fight for a place to stand unlike in most Kyoto shrines haha) The staffs also said hi to us on their way in and out.

The stone stairs and statues were interesting against the light, so I did a full piece on the side shrine.

There was a small shrine on top of the hill behind the main shrine, but unfortunately I did not find a good view on it (most of the overlook was covered by foliages...) I also lost my Suica card of 10 years while hiking up the stairs to the shrine... (I was probably taking out my phone while it slipped out of my back pocket) Attempting search for the card, I also hiked up the stairs up and down a second time. The consequence was my limping on my way to work for the next week while my muscles recuperate from the unexpected hard labour. Aaanway, I found the above nice scene while strolling around the small town next to the shrine. It was a small tea plant at the foot of the mountain. You could see how rushed I was from the messed up perspective on the right ;A; And to be honest, I finished up most of the painting after getting back to Nagoya because I had to run for the bus half way through it... Priorities, lol

Ise Grand Shrine (Ise Jingu)

Location: Ise, Mie Prefecture

I went on to visit Ise Shrine the last day (Monday) of the long weekend. Unfortunately I only had time to swing by the outer shrine before I need to go back to work in the afternoon... Anyhow, it was enough time to squeeze two drawings in and get a decent lunch!

After hearing about the horror stories of the crowds at Ise Shrine, I was pleasantly surprised by the general lack of people in the outer shrine (granted it was still much more crowded than Tsubaki) The most interesting thing was definitely the white curtain that hangs in the centre of the shrines, so that when the wind blows through it, people could catch a quick glimpse of the inside (where the deities reside) But more over, the motion of the curtain gives an impression that there is some unseen force behind it.

A close-up of one the shrines in the outer area. More the scenery itself, I clearly remember the cicadas screaming in the woods behind me. Until now I didn't know that they could start and stop in waves. Usually one or two starts, then the chorus builds up in a matter of seconds, completely drowning any surrounding sounds. I couldn't remember how long each waves lasted, but when they fade out in a matter of seconds, it also felt like an awkward silence has befallen the shrine lol

Anyhow, after seeing the unique style of the Ise Shrine buildings on Begin Japanology, I definitely wanted to capture at least one of those unique rooftops. So, mission accomplished!

Short Hop over the Pacific: Autumn in Japan

Done over a week-long trip to Japan, in between meeting up with friends and former colleagues

 Sunset over JR Osaka station was too stunning to ignore (I can never ignore good train station concourses!) So I sat down for 30 or so after getting off the bullet train, before dashing off to check-in at the hotel, before dashing off to meet my former colleagues; which, by pure luck or innate timetable planning ability, I made it within minutes of the arranged time, all with no pre-planning whatsoever. I really just finished having lunch with friend in Tokyo, thought it was about time, walked into Tokyo station, bought ticket for the next train to Osaka... Japan sure has trained me well

A view onto the narrow alleyway just outside friend's apartment. Always feeling self-conscious of being mistaken to be a stalker, I tried to find as inconspicuous a place as possible, so to avoid staring straight into some people's door.... (Which is always harder to find in bustling Tokyo) Despite how it looks, a garbage truck still made it through the narrow maze and collected all the trash while I was drawing the scene. Adding the overhead electric cables were always a bonus that I rarely get to enjoy in the US!

Scenes from Tokyo: Train stations

Tokyo station sketched in the wind (before the pending rainstorm). I was exhausted having to hold my sketchbook flat against the raging wind for close to 1 hour. I also uncovered the amazing truth that Tokyo station is asymmetric! (The tiny windows on the roof count as 4-5-center-4-5 from left to right) The station itself celebrated its 100th anniversary last December, which is why I got the special commemorative stamp on the left (styled to the similarly-shaped ceiling of the 2 domes)

Asakusa station (and the adjoining mall) in the afternoon sun.The weather was great when I went. Apparently the building was restored back to its original appearance when it first opened in 1931 in an effort to promote its historic roots and...well, impress the tourists coming to see the Skytree (on the other side of the Sumida river)

Scenes from Tokyo: TV Towers

Night view from main observation deck of Tokyo Tower (direction North-East) Having been to Tokyo Tower 3 times during daytime before, I have to admit, the view does look nicer at night when the buildings look more uniform in colour (aka. all dark except for the warm lighting)

And I thought it would be nice to pair it up with...

Night view from Tokyo Skytree (direction I-don't-know because I switched views to squeeze Tokyo Tower in) The difference in view does say for itself. And since Skytree is in a relatively residential neighbourhood, the difference in atmosphere is also quite startling. "Oh my god, I'm surrounded by all those intimidating buildings" vs. "Yo I have the entire Tokyo under my feet" 

Plus it's always nice to show off your knowledge of Tokyo by pointing out Sumida river in the foreground~

Scenes from Tokyo: Kanda

New Year prayer crowd for Kanda shrine (the queue behind where I was standing wrapped around more than 2 blocks...) All the salarymen were probably out to enjoy their only idle afternoon in the sun of the year

One of the two staff/cook at Kikanbo Ramen. Delicious spicy ramen!

Scenes from Tokyo: Tsukiji

I half-heartedly followed my buddies on a early morning trip to Tsukiji. The lines for both in-market sushi bar were overwhelming, but we settled in to wait for our breakfast-turned-brunch. While waiting for my own line, I was observing the insane queue next door for Sushi Dai. The people in front of the door was just the tip of the iceberg, a whole crowd was waiting around the corner.

Sushi chef at work while I wait for my sushi brunch. I think I was way too hungry to judge the quality of the sushi by that point lol. After gulping down my plate of sushi, I then suffered from an extremely heavy stomach (consequence of eating too fast) throughout our afternoon stroll in Tokyo. 

Lady praying at the main shrine (and unofficial guardian) of Tsukiji: Namiyoke (Protection against the waves) Inari Shrine. The crowd in front of the shrine made it almost seems like a wedding is going on! 

Lotus pond at Shukugawa Community Center

Despite the overwhelmingly famous Cherry blossoms at Shukugawa (even the local JR station is named as Sakura Shukugawa), the lotus pond was still worth the visit (and the mosquito bites thereof) There's even Nishikigoi swimming between the weeds!

Hyogo Profectural Mansion (or what I think the name should be)

Drawn during a drizzle while fending off the mosquito attacks. It used to be the main administration building of Hyogo Prefecture over 100 years ago and is still within close proximity from the one right now. Believe me, the building is much bigger than it seems in the drawing (shows how important framing is lol)

Kyoto Aquarium!

Fun day out sketching with Kyoto Sketch Club!

Kobe Harborland at Sunset

Went to Kobe after work in search of Kobe Port Tower, but ended up sketching the cranes and Harborland across from it~ Stamp is from JR Kobe station

Bank of Japan - Osaka Branch (Old Building) at Nakanojima, Osaka

The old gentleman manning the gate of Osaka City Hall kindly allowed me to stand there and sketch the Bank of Japan across the street. Sketched and coloured during a constant drizzle :D

Home for the summer! Ashiya city, Hyogo Prefecture #afterwork

Drawn at sunset from the platform of Hankyu Ashiyagawa station

Quick montage of Hankyu Nishinomiya-kitaguchi station

Waiting/resting area inside the station with a few greens, a cute tree of bells, and a nice skylight! The phoenix adorn the front door of Hankyu Department store. Has a quite dignified aura lol

Garden terrace w/ fountains (Hankyu Nishinomiya Gardens)

Akashi Kaikyo Bridge (at dusk), Hyogo, Japan

Local Shrine (after work series)

Kyo-Train (Hankyu) -> SL at Arashiyama -> Umeda Evangelion Store