Am I... in London, again??

So through some genius planning skills, I somehow ended up exactly where I left off last time...which is London. Unfortunately I only had 4 pages left on my previous sketchbook and it would be space inefficient if I bring 2 on the road, so I just started a new one, feeling rather guilty. (I honestly have no idea how I'm gonna fill the last 4 pages...given there is nothing of value to sketch around where I live)

 

-British Museum- 

I didn't expect much from British Museum's Great Court, since I'm usually an exterior-only sketcher. But I dunno, this place kind of blurred the line between inside and outside. I read that the Museum forbids wet media inside the galleries, so I just found myself a spot on the spiral staircase (I think I would have done the Benin bronzes otherwise) Loads of people were sitting on the ground, on the stairs, basically everywhere, so nobody really paid any attention to me. A lady with a hard shelled briefcase stopped to chat, so I thought she probably works in the museum. And then she asked me how one could get into the galleries...ooops

-King's College, Cambridge-

Not exactly in London, but I kind of squeezed in a quick sketch while we were waiting for lunch. It felt like it is going to rain, so I was really rushed. The restaurant staff was even nice enough to come out to tell me that food is ready (while I totally underestimated how fast they prepared the food) We attended the evening chapel service to check out the famous chapel without paying (we did end of standing 70% of the time though) and the sun came out in the end! It was pretty great except visitors are not allowed to linger during exam time...so a missed opportunity

-London Sketching Day 1-

 

I think this must the best of my St Paul's attempt so far! The shape of the dome is finally somewhat making sense! When I was there a French tour group stopped dead in front of me, and a little French girl promptly latched onto me, despite pleading from parents to not disturb me. I ignored her throughout (an artist must concentrate!), but we did say bye to each other when the group left. 

I took a break later at St. Bart the Great and almost crashed a wedding (??) Anyway so I was just sitting there minding my own business, and then I heard some exaggerated small talk in posh English. Whatever, I filter these out automatically and concentrate on counting my arches. But the small talk continued and somewhat multiplied (?) Finally I was curious enough to see who exactly were talking...they were very nicely dressed people like suits, nice dresses, definitely not how people would randomly dress. Then it finally clicked and I realized either a wedding or a wedding reception is about to begin in this church. (throughout this time the choir was also rehearsing) I looked around and there were no other tourists in sight. So I quickly packed up my things, ducked my head and bolted out of the church (on my way out, I saw another finely dressed couple walking in, the lady wearing the most outrageous hat that I've only seen on the news)

A couple more London classics. Found a few construction workers in full relaxation mode. I was pretty shocked when I saw that the mayor's office is getting dismantled, apparently they are moving to another location with lower rent and the current building is getting a redesign.

 

The view is technically better on the Tower of London side (where the sun hits the bridge), but it was way quieter here. I guess I have done this view a few times already, but this is definitely the first time with the bridge opened! (a boat with huge sails was passing through)

-London Sketching Day 2-

 

On the 2nd day I attempted 2 places I haven't done yet, sort of. I have sketched Westminster across the river before, and also in silhouette. The crowd in front of the Big Ben was huge, but luckily I found a traffic island in the middle of the road where tourists don't usually linger. I could lean against the fence on one side because there was no view of importance behind me, and tourists can still take pictures in front of me. (I reassured 2 couples they're not blocking me at all. They were taking some time in front of me, getting balloons ready for a milestone birthday I think) I didn't quiiiite capture the shape of the clock tower, but happy with the overall result, in a super chaotic environment.

Technically I have done Piccadilly Circus before, but never the iconic view of the fountain and the billboards behind it. I drew the figure way too big so had to scale down the fountain itself many folds to fit in the entire scene. Probably the most chaotic place I've ever done a sketch in, right up there with Rialto Bridge. Luckily I found a little place to sit at the underground exit, so I wasn't in the way of other people (except when they needed to read the map next to me) After this I already felt both my social and artistic battery drained

 

Not overated Stonehenge + Bath

I was too excited, so I actually couldn't fit the one last stone block on the right. Getting to Stonehenge was rather low key but kind of way more interesting in different ways. I was expecting hordes of tourists descending on Salisbury, waiting to get on the shuttle bus to Stonehenge. Salisbury itself was somewhat busy with tourists, but there was absolutely no one waiting for the bus (and there were definitely people waiting for buses, but just to some places with fanciful names) Anyhow, we just missed the hourly bus when we arrived, so we decided to grab some quick lunch in the town. Maybe it was as well we kept our lunch light, because nobody expected the double-decker shuttle bus to do a fast furious run through the rolling English countryside. The plastic seats were so smooth that people on the upper deck (like us) were definitely sliding furiously back and forth. I think the bus trip itself is worth 80% of the entry fee.

-Stonehenge- 

We didn't know that there was a frequent shuttle bus connecting the visitor center and actual Stonehenge. We saw people walking on a footpath and decided to hit it as well. It was a solid 30 min trek in I don't know where, probably somebody's field. At some point, we definitely lost sight of everyone. And I was shouldering my full overnight bag..it was heavy! Anyway, when we got to the actual ticket checking point, the guy was actually surprised we were able to produce tickets, given our disheveled look emerging from the bushes. It was good exercise though and yes we definitely took the free bus back to the visitor centre.

-Bath-

Another Roman monument! Actually it was really exciting to see a roman bath this well preserved after seeing all the other ruins scattered across continental Europe. I found a good bench to sit on the top floor and thought might as well, assuming (correctly) that people would be probably jostling for photos on the lower floor. So I wasn't actually able to draw the actual bath itself...There were some French enfants on a school trip  

No Sun...No Problem! - London

The opportunity presented itself that I had a chance to stopover in London for a weekend. Between sleeping off a jetlag comfortably through a weekend in the US or starting a work week the night after getting off a transcontinental flight, I choose the latter every time. This also means I get to spend a true full weekend in London, flying in and out on workdays (I already sacrificed a Sunday on my way in, so I feel fully justified in burning a Monday traveling)

 

I basically sleepwalked my way from the plane to Elizabeth line, then again from the train to the hotel, because everything has been done more than once before. It was pretty surreal crashing in the tiny but (in my opinion) perfectly laid out room in London. From a remote village in Southwest Germany to the biggest metropolis in Europe, that's what I call a proper commute. (I got to FRA way way too early, after mistaking the boarding time as departure time, even after the disaster logistics that is to get to FRA terminal 2 non schengen departure) Everything after getting to London was peak efficiency, meanwhile FRA only had 1 guy doing all EU passports on a Friday night! while 30 people queued behind me.

 

Day 1

After having a proper full breakfast with an overly sweet Chai, I headed to what I didn't get to do last time, One New Change's roof terrace. The terrace was impressive, also impressive that they had 2 people watch the crowds at all time. I thought they're gonna say something to me about open water jar or whatever, but they left me alone. When I was almost done, a group of maybe 20 school kids roared in. I think they are from some Eastern European nation, but their guide spoke English. While their guide dismissed the kids to "take selfies for Instagram or whatever", 3 girls approached me and asked if I was doing "aquelle", which I guess is every non-English term for watercolour. And yes, of course teenage girls are more observant than their male counterpart, whom I noticed barely paid attention to the guide's speech.

 

I got a feeling that my St Paul's is not chubby enough, so I decided to do another one from Watling Street. Situating myself in front of an alley way to what I thought is just a barber shop (I think it is actually some sort of apartment or AirBnB, because quite some people filed out when I was standing there) My policy is to not block the sidewalk unless I really have to, so I just poke my head out when I need to see more. (Probably a good choice, because foot traffic definitely picked up while I was there) I also got to hear some free explanation when tour groups passed by. One guide mentioned that Watling Street is the last remaining section of a Roman road that used to go to Wales, and that Sir Christopher Wren built the pub (green) first before starting on St Paul's so that the workers have a place to eat. 

Then I stopped by Guildhall and checked out the Roman Amphitheatre that I definitely did not know about when I visited last time. Because it was getting cold and I was getting hungry, I decided to skip Guildhall for another time. After a late lunch I did Spitalfield Market before the sun went down

 

Day 2

 My favourite store's Brick Lane location was temporarily closed, so I had to head to the West End to finish my shopping. Then I thought why not and did a freer rendition of Trafalgar Square, while standing next to the Canadian mission. The square was busy, but there was almost no one on this side of the street. Honestly I have no idea why I kept on getting St Paul's wrong and had no trouble with Trafalgar Square.

Case and point, I could never get St Paul's to work. This is probably the worst and most vexing of all my drawings this trip

After deciding I cannot end my trip on a low point, I gave myself some warm food and headed back over to Guildhall. It was as damp and cold as yesterday, but with my stomach filled, I sat down comfortably on one of the many fixed benches provided and leisurely finished this very satisfying rendition. Probably my favourite one on this trip!

 

A Short Train Ride Away - Luxembourg

 From Trier, Luxembourg was only a short 50 mins ride away on the regional train. I almost regretted my pre-purchased ticket when I saw an SNCF train pulled into the opposite platform, destined for Metz. That was my runners up destination! For some reason, I thought it was only accessible from Saarbrücken, but I guess it makes sense that the bigger city Trier would have a direct train connection too. In the end I decided to stick with my original plan and do Luxembourg.

 The train station area was nothing fancy, so I only started my once in old town. It is pretty liberating when all public transportation is free. Or else I'm pretty sure I would have walked.

Warm up with the main cathedral (turned out rather well I think) 

After taking the public elevator down, I did this one of the old fortifications across the river Alzette, Eich Gate

I debated if I should stand at the edge of the walkway, but ended up just choosing higher ground to avoid tourist traffic. While I was doing this super complex piece, I had 2 German girls posing and taking photos for 20 mins at least, each coaching the other one. And then a little girl asked her parents to put her up on tree behind me (??) so that she can watch me paint. And then her parents begged and begged her to leave me alone and she wouldn't listen. I ignored her in the beginning so I had to stay in character. In the end, after a good 10 mins of parents begging and then threatening to leave, the little girl finally agreed. 

I think I still suck at drawing grand overviews from the top...but that never stops me from trying lol

I left earlier than I usually do because of the 1 hr commute back + 1 hr drive from Trier and I really don't want to drive in the dark. After getting food at a surprisingly super empty five guys (during which I totally forgot how numbers work in French and had to endure the shame of having to have my number also called in English) I got a sudden chocolate milk crave and impulse purchased probably the only truly Luxembourg produced product in the convenience store, and then I just drank straight from the carton at the platform because I'm desperate enough. And yes, I did blissfully fell asleep during the train ride home. It was very satisfying

Mosel, Roman ruins, and Karl Marx - Trier

 I managed to squeeze in a weekend of free travel while out in South Western Germany for work. I only got to stop by Trier in a high-pressure 30 mins window before I had to fly back to Berlin last time, so this time I decided to really take my time and just stay over for the night.

I was originally gonna take my time and chill a bit before heading over from the hotel, but then I remembered how backed up the only street into town was last time (basically down a steep winding road, then across the Mosel in one lane traffic, then finally into town. I ended up arriving before 10am, way before the weekend crowd arrived managed to easily snag a parking space on the 1st floor! 

I did a warm up at the main square before heading to Porta Nigra. The red silhouette in the back is the main cathedral, which sadly I didn't get a chance to do this time.

The side facing the city was covered up for restoration (apparently to make it less black...which is slightly questionable given its name) so I found a vantage point across the street on the other side. I guess, it is the most famous Roman monument in the whole of Germany?? I think originally it was symmetric, but it then lost one of its towers and was converted to a church (hence the extra bit on the left). The sun also came out at this point, which was great!

 

 

Next I made my way back to where I drove from and found a bench along the Mosel to do the Kaiser Wilhelm bridge. A guy actually turned around on his bike when he noticed me sketching. Out of whatever reason, he decided to speak with me in English at first, which is a huge red flag whenever I'm in a non-English speaking country, so then I just pretended I don't speak English but can understand German. He ended up asking if I'm doing a Erasmus program. I have no idea what that is, but said no lol, and then he just left. 

 

I challenged myself to do a overview, which I was never good at. It turned out...okay? probably because the shape of the river was doing most of the structural heavy lifting. I also got the chance enjoy the now super heavy traffic into town crawling past me. It was a little windy (the wind kept closing the lid of my palette), but still warm and sunny.

  

 

During my visit to the Kaiserthermen (where the lady selling ticket decided to hand me a guide in Dutch, after I told her I prefer English), it drizzled a bit, but I guess the structure above ground was not as interesting as the catacomb underneath (and I ain't sketching anything in the cold damp underground tunnel). By the time I hiked to the Amphitheatre, the sun is poking out a little again. After getting my ticket and heading into the arena, I saw 4 people in costume and gear fighting gladiator style, I almost thought I got like some "become a gladiator for the day" random experience ticket. And was relieved when they just ignored me. Again, the underground section was a little eerie, but very serene. This is probably the least crowded Roman amphitheatre I've ever been to, but also kind of random because there are vineyards on the hills all around it lol

  

Quickly remembering that tomorrow is Sunday, I managed to procure some toothpaste and a Kirschkernkissen from DM while waiting for my dinner!

When Art Saved Me from Food Poisoning: Porto and Douro Valley

Went on a short weekend getaway to Porto to meet up with friends from the US. The upside is: I get to meet up with old aquaintances and chat over some delicious meals (which doesn't happen too often for an introvert). The downside is: the weather was fabulous and way better than when I last spent 2 weeks there during Christmas, but I couldn't sketch when and where I wanted. 

Anyhow, I did catch some break by (1) skipping fresh oyster treat at the market (because I never grew a taste for it, and because my first impression of it was from a Maupassant story) (2) skipping a wine tasting (because the scenery outside was way more attractive than having to sit at a table and watch people drink and come up with descriptions) (3) simply getting up early

Clérigos Church - while skipping oyster eating

View of Douro River - while leaving the wine tasting table at Graham's

Douro Valley wineyards - from hotel room terrace

 Skipping oyster turned out to be a giant blessing in disguise, because most people I went with got sick afterwards. Art and socialist upbringing saved me I guess?? My flight back was postponed by one day because of a technical issue with the plane, but I decided to chill at the airport hotel even though there was technically still some time to go back in town and do some proper sketches. I was just exhausted from driving and the anxious waiting at the airport. All in all a good trip, I went in unsure if I could finish the last 4 pages of the sketchbook, but I did and included the much coveted red roofs of Porto (Schmincke transparent orange's time to shine).

Where I discover the necessity of the Siesta - Rome

After reading the blog by a local artist, I realized that I never really properly sketched Rome, or maybe none at all?? Technically I've been to Rome twice, but both trips were very rushed and packed with itineries. (And did I mentioned the unbearable heat??) Anyway, so I booked Rome for the upcoming Labour Day long weekend, with absolutely no plan to step into any monument or stand in line. Just, sketch, eat, and sleep.

Day 1

So yeah, I was not prepared for the heat. By the time I arrived in Rome proper, it was nearly 1PM and 27C. I really regretted not changing into my linen pants in the morning.

I was just going to pick the closest church from Termini to warm up (the irony of that on a burning hot day) and headed to Santa Maria Maggiore. This church totally slipped under my radar even though I always stayed near Termini. Only when I noticed the huge queue in the plaza did I recall hearing this name in the news lately: the late Pope Francis was only recently buried here. There was a good patch of shadows across the street and a good landing spot for my bag and supplies, so I "warmed up" while panting and constantly wiping sweat away.

I then walked to the Colosseum and found a tiny patch of shadow casted by a restoration/construction access gate, which was also conveniently located at the end of the walkway when it turns right. The angle was of course not perfect (the diagonal cut of the colosseum is not very prominent), but I was already lucky to find this spot! And...I'm still rubbish with arches. So that was Big Ben, Eiffel Tower, Colosseum all checked off right?

After dinner, I was taking a stroll around the hotel and stumbled upon this wonderful view of the same church again. I don't do the same subject twice, but this calls for an exception (for some reason it really felt like that the 2 domes are unequal in dimension...maybe I'm going crazy) There was a guy asking if that in the front is indeed Santa Maria Maggiore. This time I was confident in my answer!

Day 2

I did a crash course of Rome travel tips on Youtube and decided to head out early the next day and take siesta during the hottest hours. And so I headed out at 8:30 (which is already uncharacteristically early for me on vacation) to Castel Sant'Angelo. The view from the bridge itself was also very nice, but there was a growing crowd of tourists throughout the bridge. So I ended up taking the stairs to the water level (somehow I never noticed these lower river banks earlier). The shadow was on my side so it was actually a bit chilly while I worked. Very people came through despite the nice view, down here which was understandable because I also missed it the previous time I was here. I had to rework the last/closest arch several times ooops

Deciding that my arch-drawing skills need more practise, I immediately stopped at the next bridge downstream, Ponte Vittorio Emmanuelle II. This time I sat on top of the stone railings along the river, which put me out of foot traffic and also above passer-by eye level. This was where I got asked once if they can take picture of my drawing, and another time of me drawing (?). I really loved how green and full-bodies the Tiber looked. (Oh and even though I never planned to include St. Peter's in this trip, it somehow popped up in both of these sketches! Very sneaky)

Afterwards I had incredible good luck in finding a decent spot to sketch the Fountain of Four Rivers at Piazza Navona. The restaurant next door had some flower pots to delineate their outdoor seating area, so I put my water jar down on them. The crowd in front of the fountain was too dense for me to see the bottom structure, but the main statues were visible! I dunno if there were still people who knew this place from Angels and Demons, like me.

I was originally planning to do the next one at Pantheon, but it was impossible, totally impossible. There was barely any standing room left. So I gave up and started heading back to the hotel when I saw this when walking through the heavy construction area at Piazza Venezia. Pedestrian traffic was dense and chaotic, but there was shadow and scaffolding on the buildings, which provided some space for people to rest and take a break from walking. The left side of the Vittoriano was slightly obscured, but I can't ask for too much. During this time, a lady actually asked me where Teatro Marcello was, with a hand written itinerary. I had absolutely no idea what that was. I looked it up on my phone, but I'm pretty I gave her the wrong direction because the whole Piazza Venezia looked nothing like the map. While I was putting in the finishing touches, a guy (the dad of a family of 3) stopped a bit longer to take a look, and eventually said "Congratulations" to me before leaving. I had no idea what he meant, but still said "Thank you and have a nice day" to them (??) After this, lunch, then siesta from 2-6pm heck yeah.

Day 3

The next day I headed to Spanish Steps (another place I never really visited before) first thing in the morning, getting there at 8:30AM. There were people, but no crowd. So I settled comfortably in front a (still closed) luxury shop window and had full view of the scene. Unfortunately I did accidentally put the two towers a bit too close to each other, so I decided not to add the obelisk in the end...

At Piazza del Popolo was when I really felt I'm getting some sketching fatigue. There were some strange flat metal bars that were just wide enough for people to sit, but as I discovered, only intended for a short stay because they make your legs go numb. I didn't plan for this, but this time the Obelisk was big enough in the frame that I needed to put in details for the hieroglyphs. This was the first time I sketched in a script I know nothing about! Super exciting!

I did the last 2 at River Tiber/Ponte Fabricio, the oldest bridge in Rome. I kind of messed up the first one, but the second one at river level was much better. Despite the chaos on the street level, here at the water level everything was extremely peaceful. And because of the sound of the rushing water, I could concentrate a lot more. So much so that a handfull of passer-bys really gave me a surprise when they walked behind me (because I didn't hear them approaching at all) and eventually a maintenance truck driver had to gently tap his car to make me notice them (he didn't honk, which was very considerate, because I could have had a heart attack). I didn't expect cars to come through at all, so I parked myself in the middle of the road ooops.