Getting Told Off by Temple Staff - Encore in Kyoto

Boy were we unprepared for the heavy snow in Kyoto. Technically it is already supposed to be least snow-affected region in Japan, but when we saw the huge snow flakes drifting by in front of our 10F restaurant window on the night of our arrival, we knew we were in for some surprises the next day. The next day (Saturday) Kyoto basically shifted through bouts of warm sunlight and windy snow drift, at 30 mins intervals. We accidentally, or not accidentally chose Kinkakuji as our first destination, totally unaware that the snow has brought loads of spectators to see the snow decked golden temple. We were fortunate to see this in person, but unfortunately the temple staff basically kicked me out for "blocking traffic" and "contaminating temple ground" with my watercolour. And that was after I specifically found a quiet corner that was out of the way of foot traffic, where several other people were also standing still and taking a break from walking. I had barely opened my palette when the closed wooden counter shutter slid open and a man poked his head out. Another guy who had his water bottle on the counter and I both thought he was asking us to move our stuff off the counter, but he only turned his attention to me and started dictating in this I-hate-tourists-and-my-job semi-condescending voice that I am contaminating their temple ground with my paint. So I said, okay then can I use pencil-only? He said, oh definitely not, I'm blocking traffic flow and it is not allowed, and pointed towards the non-existent crowd that I was definitely blocking. It was only too reminiscent of my last similar encounter, which just so happened to be another temple in Kyoto! I mean, that really says something. I'm pretty sure I managed to get more sketched at god damn Hankyu Umeda Station before a station staff approached me.  After a few back and forth, I gave up the fight and just left. Only then did I realize the plethora of surveillance cameras scattered through the premise, which was probably how they spotted me through a closed wooden shutter. They really are only interested in moving the cattles, I mean, the temple patrons, along as fast as possible. But come on, people who were hogging the front row viewing deck taking photos were okay, but me with a brush and sketchbook staying all the way in the back bothering nobody had to leave??

Anyway, when we were taking a quick break waiting out the snow in the resting shed (?), I did a quick one with the now ever increasing number of visitors and a guard managing traffic. Overhearing us speaking English, a girl from New Zealand who was traveling solo asked us to take a photo of her. While my friend was taking the photo, I overheard a Japanese couple saying "oh dear, I had no idea what she just said meant she wanted a photo taken. I would only understand 'photo, okay?'" Which was hilarious because the girl used very polite language to ask, precisely because she noticed we were fluent English speakers. And of course, more polite = more complex sentence construction. 

When approaching Yasaka Shrine, I noticed a strange no-man's land encircled by the edge of the sidewalk, the traffic light pole, and the sidewalk fence. It was also situated at the perfect spot for viewing the front of the shrine. Perfect view + no risk of blocking foot traffic. I really couldn't pass up this opportunity!

 I also did one in Kiyomizu-dera, but the weight of my experience at Kinkakuji was definitely hanging over my head, so it didn't turn out really well (plus the crowd size was much much denser than Kinkakuji)

A Sampling of Andalusia

The second Christmas I spent in Europe. Using my improved understanding of European climate distribution in Winter, I convinced my parents to choose Southern Spain (having scouted out Malaga myself in March) as our Christmas destination. Fuengiralo turned out to be a good choice to stay, not big enough to sprawl, but also big enough to have every shop we needed in walking distance. The only downside is that its main attraction is the beach, with mainly modern condos and not much historical heritage left. (as befitting of an area Rick Steves once suggested to skip over) And so we broke up the 2 week holiday with rest days intersected by day trips to neighbouring cities.

Granada (1hr40mins drive)

The Alhambra was the planned highlight of the trip, the hook. Although to be honest I only remembered to book tickets for it 1 week in advance. I also panicked when I saw that no tickets were left during our stay, but thankfully when I (wisely) checked again the next day some more tickets popped up! Thank you Winter, I can't imagine fighting for this ticket in summer. There were some convenient director's chair (or Savonarola chair) facing the fountain so I took a seat while sketching (also kept me away from pedestrian foot traffic) 

 

There were lots of people taking photos around the water, so I hid myself behind a hedge.

Fuengirola (home base)

Nothing of the sort I usually sketch, but the beach was indeed fantastic. Although I did almost leave my sketchbook behind when trying to get sand out of my shoes. Thankfully there weren't much foot traffic at that specific bench, so my sketchbook was still at the same place when we went back 20 mins later.

Mijas (15 mins drive)

A nice village up hill from Fuengirola, with a brand new multi-level parking lot that only charges 1 Euro max per day (and a lot of donkey pimps)

Ronda (1hr30mins drive)

Absolutely the best sketching experience. There was a lookout platform that was popular with tourists posing for photos, but, under the platform there was enough space to sit with open view to the canyon, yet unseen by the tourists on top. As I was doing the finishing touches, 3 little children decided to sit down to my right on the steps that lead down to the canyon and watch me work. Which was interesting because I myself usually choose places that don't block traffic flow, but they were definitely blocking normal traffic. But again, I'm not their parents so...whatever. They were watching so intently and silently I felt kind of awkward packing up and leave. But there came a point I really can't pretend to put more stuff onto the page, so I had to pack and leave. The kids, again, said nothing when I left. Nor did their guardians show up (strange)

Gibraltar/La Linea (2hr drive)

New Year's Eve in La Linea, with the Rock of Gibraltar half visible from the hotel balcony

Tarifa

Only by divine intervention did we manage to find a parking spot here. It was pretty crazy to see the African continent so close.

Winter Sun - Berlin

A rare sunny December weekend day! But, I still need to get my exercise in. So I went over to Museuminsel first. The sun was casting a very dramatic shadow on Alte Nationalgalerie, my hands were shaking (because I'm absolutely rubbish with columns) but it came out much better than I thought! Definitely better than my first attempt of the same subject. (Also was somehow recognized by a colleague who was walking by, even though I was in my cycling gear, which was totally different from my bookish office outfit) Well, I guess everyone in Berlin was out strolling around on this nice day.

 

After doing my rounds, I came back to the same area and parked myself next to a bustling Christmas market. By this time the entire street was in shadows and only the taller buildings had light left on it, so I quickly scribbled before speeding off to warm up at home.

When in Doubt, go to Nikolaiviertel

 Nikolaiviertel is really a special place, especially in the otherwise unbearable summer heat in Berlin. When it is suffocating outside, I usually treat myself to a shorter bike ride and then relax in the shade of Nikolaiviertel

TV tower and the corner of Zum Nussbaum

The good old Knoblauchhaus

Quickie: Milan + Como

I quickly got a few pieces done while traveling with some friends from US. 

A view in Milan was quickly done during a rain break. A few local teenagers were hanging out nearby and actually chatted with us for a bit about the drawing, the weather, and the adventures they had during the day. Close encounter with Italian teenagers! (they did speak almost perfect English, in American-esque accent)

Milan

I did a similar view from the restaurant terrace the previous night during dinner (it's been a while since I last had dinner where I was staying, but the remote-ish location of the hotel really makes this a necessity) while a thunderstorm rolled in. It was really a magical experience. But, unfortunately the painting didn't turn out too well...so I slipped out early to attempt it again from the parking lot, in the morning sun. This one turned out much better. I was even able to include the Fiat Panda I rented!

Mandello del Lario

 

The Hochbahn Stations of Berlin - a tour in Spring

Decided to do a tour of the original Berlin Hochbahn stations while the weather was nice! I kind of noticed there were only a handfull of train stations in Berlin could be described as aethetically pleasing, rather than purely utilitarian, as I cycled my way around the city. Only afterwards did I connect the dots and realized that these "nicer looking" stations are all the same train line, and also built in similar time period. 

Done over 2 weekends in May/June

U Bülowstraße

U Nollendorfplatz

U Wittenbergplatz

Oberbaumstraße + Schlesisches Tor

U Schlesisches Tor

Sunset at home - Karl Marx Allee

 When the day gets longer and longer it feels wasteful sometimes not to utilize it to the fullest. There is a convenient green patch dividing the 2 directions at Karl Marx Allee. The traffic is chaotic and noisy I know, but the view is also superb (which could not be said to many other neighbourhoods I've lived in) To the east there is Frankfurter Tor, to the west the Fernsehturm. I really didn't even bother moving, just turned and faced the other direction to work on the second one.

Eastward View

Westward View