I was fortunate enough to be given the opportunity to work for close to 2 months near the Mosel/Rhein river area. I was technically working in the nearby mountainous Eifel region, but the rivers are much more accessible than if I were in Berlin. Plus the need for AC-ed hotel room meant I had to make my daily commute to/from Trier, the quintessential Mosel river town anyways, so might as well make a tour. (I never get to appreciate the Spree much in Berlin)
The problem with visiting so many cities over every weekend is that I started forgetting what I did the previous week, just because there are new things to see every weekend! I wouldn't even call the record breaking 2 month trip away from home a hardship...honestly it is way more interesting than if I stayed home and I wouldn't mind staying longer even.
Cologne
When I told my intern that my last time in Cologne was almost 15 years ago, she was a little taken aback. Cologne is technically the first German city I've visited, having crossed over by train from Belgium in the summer of 2011. I remember almost nothing except that I left mom waiting on the giant staircases in front of the cathedral as I climbed up (I remember nothing of the cathedral itself, except that it is gigantic) I also remember mom telling me afterwards that while I was gone some high schooler were hitting on her (??) Anyway, unfortunately the once free cathedral started charging entrance fee 4 days before I arrived, so I didn't bother going in. As I was drawing this in the still kind of peaceful square, a random dude started talking to me about some nonsense connection between place and people. I politely told him to please stop talking to me. There were quite some random people drifting around the square, but I stood very close to the taxi stand, so at least all the waiting taxi drivers could act as deterrent. Eventually a friendly taxi driver talked to me also and asked me where the spire went...ooops (in the beginning he was struggling to think of the English word for Spitze, but I told him I could speak German lol)
After some online research, I noticed that almost all shots/sketches of Cologne are from a particular angle from across the river, so I made my way there too! There were loads of sun loungers along the river bank and I got myself a comfortable seat there as well! This is definitely the money shot
Afterwards the weather was getting a little too hot to be standing in the sun, so I strolled around the old town area looking for a scenic spot (Cologne old town is actually not so big and very densely packed). I found a quiet lane with a nice breeze a block away from Fischmarkt. Afterwards I headed back to the air conditioned hotel for my much deserved siesta.
Wuppertal
Technically I also stopped at Düsseldorf before heading to Wuppertal, but there was literally nothing worth looking twice there. So after having a very mediocre bowl of ramen and underwhelming gyoza in the supposed biggest Japan town in Germany, I headed to Wuppertal to check out the Schwebebahn that apparently all self-respecting transportation nerds need to visit, and as a bonus, also Frederick Engel's former home in nearby Barmen. And so I rode the surprisingly modern feeling Schwebebahn up the Wupper river to round up my communism founders' tour. After the visit, I was struggling to find a good vista and non sketchy place to draw the railway bridge and train. And so I walked round the Wuppertal main station at least twice before I settled on this foot bridge. It started drizzling literally minutes after I finished it. Phew! The only regret is that I could only check out the numerous adorable Schwuppi souvenirs from the shop window because the tourism office is closed on Sunday! I left downtrodden and swore revenge. Give. Me. My. Souvenirs!!!!
Frankfurt
After dropping off my intern and car at the airport, I had a long siesta in the hotel and then headed out after dinner (finally some decent Chinese food!) for a stroll along the Main river. I have been in Frankfurt in 2017 for a vacation and some places did look familiar. But I also remember only doing some rushed sketches because we didn't have much time.
The old town center square was nicely lit during sunset!
Koblenz
The next day I headed over to Koblenz (with a stop in Mainz to pick up some much needed sketchbooks!) The city itself is kind of...underwhelming? But the setting itself is impressive, being sandwiched between Mosel and Rhein. The vicinity to water is truly amazing, and people were definitely taking advantage of the long river banks to relax and chill. (in the shade/in the evening of course, the sun was absolutely lethal this weekend)
The famous Deutsches Eck was impossible to sketch from the front because of the burning sun. So I decided to sketch the statue from behind (and of course, in the shade). The park is super popular with families, and some children stopped to said hi. It was very sweet.
Bacharach
Using Koblenz as a jumping board, I headed to Bacharach the next morning (the drive was along the Rhein river, a very up and personal experience) I was hiding in the shade while doing my first sketch of the town entrance, while 2 older Chinese couple came over. They didn't speak to me, but the husband said to his wife, hey you must take a picture from her angle, the artist knows the best! And I was like (in my mind): sir I was just trying to stay in the shade! I actually liked this one a lot. I could feel the impending heat seeping through the page even now!
Then I made my reluctant ascent up the town to see if I could find a decent view. There was almost no cover heading up, but thankfully there was a tower in the middle that offered a view and shade. So I just sat down right there and made camp. Technically there is still better view if one hikes higher, but I said no to the brutal sun. I used to scoff at the notion of "Romantic Rhein"...but now I can see why
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